Originally little more than a swampy watering hole for Maasai tribes, Nairobi grew when the railway arrived and had became a substantial town by 1900. Five years later it succeeded Mombasa as the capital of the British protectorate, and today it is the largest city between Cairo and Johannesburg.
Nowadays, the 'Green City in the Sun' is an attractive city with wide tree-lined streets and spacious parkland suburbs. Kenya's capital is cosmopolitan, lively, interesting and pleasantly landscaped. Despite the capital's appearance, urban crime is on the increase and visitors are advised to take precautions such as avoiding certain areas, or walking anywhere at night.
Conical Mount Kenya, an extinct volcano, is the second-highest mountain in Africa, at 4986m (16,358ft) above sea level. The national park covers 600 sq km (230 sq miles) of forest and bare rock straddling the equator, all above 1800m (6000ft).
The Masai Mara Game Reserve is often called simply 'The Mara' which is the Maa word meaning "Mottled", a reference to the patchy landscape. The Maasai (the more usual spelling when referring to the people), are a proud semi-nomadic cattle-rearing people with a fascinating culture, and have a very special relationship with their cattle, which are essential to their life-style. The Maasai have survived a troubled history but are under increasing pressure to conform with modern society.
Within the National Park it is possible to see an endless array of animals, the so-called 'Big 5' (buffalo, elephant, leopard, lion and rhino) plus cheetah, zebra, giraffe and hippo, as well as hyena, primates, many species of antelope and wildebeest, which often sleep or feed beside the many dirt tracks. Most visitors prefer to watch for animals from the comfort of the park's two lodges, 'Treetops' and 'Ark', both built on platforms overlooking clearings which are floodlit at night.